north india, part iii – agra & delhi.

agra.

a night in

a hotel we’d

been to once before,

just for tea

after a long

day of sightseeing,

but still a memory.

this time

we were actually

staying there.

maddy was a crying mess

when we arrived,

drooling and flailing,

turning the heads

of a giant group

of german tourists.

i recognized a

couple of them

from earlier today,

and realized that they

were part of the

same group of

people who watched

as maddy crawled

across the cold ground

of fatehpur sikri.

and i recognized

her behavior as

the telltale signs

of a teething baby.

couldn’t help but

think things

were going to be

disastrous over the next

few days…

we had a rather

tight schedule,

lots of places to

visit, things to

see, and trying to

do them with a

baby acting the way

madeline was

seemed about as

appealing as puncturing

my eardrums with

a pencil.

but the way that

maddy was screaming,

i figured i’d be

deaf soon

enough anyway.

we got checked in,

and had a nice

dinner during which

madeline was calm,

and for the

first time on

our trip,

she chose rachel’s

lap over mine.

the ladies went

to sleep,

while i caught up

with the family

via video chat,

then wrote until

it was almost time

for us to

start our day.

everyone was up

before sunrise,

and excited for the day.

even madeline,

though she

had no idea

what she was about

to see.

our guide and

our driver

were waiting

for us, and

as i shook the guide’s

hand, i remembered him.

at the same

time he reminded me

that we

had been with him before.

standing there,

just outside the

hotel, i had to tell

him about

liz.

figured that was

better than

him wondering all

day why i was here

with a

liz

clone and a

woman who quite obviously

wasn’t the woman he met

three years earlier.

a moment

i hadn’t anticipated.

we were in

the car for a

few minutes before

arriving at

the drop point.

from that spot

we took a pollution-free

vehicle up to

the gates.

(last time we took a camel)

a view from our camel cart.

the two previous

times i’d been here,

once with

liz,

and once with

my mom,

the lines were shorter

than it was that day.

but we were

there to

see the place

at sunrise.

and so was

everyone else in agra.

line to get into the taj.

rachel’s line,

(yeah, one for women and one for men)

moved faster

than ours,

so she was

able to get

a couple of shots

of us getting frisked.

getting frisked.

finding no

food items

or weapons on

madeline, they

allowed us in.

us.

maddy and me.

having the same

guide ensured that

we started off the

tour in the exact same

way the previous

tours had started

the gateway to the taj mahal.

so instead

of listening

to him,

i walked with maddy,

letting her explore

the place.

reaching.

pigtails courtesy of rachel.

soon it was

time to

go inside.

when i was here with

liz,

i can still

remember the way

she reacted when

she first saw

the place from here:

taj mahal.

we kept walking,

pushing past hoards

of tourists

until we finally

made it inside.

the place is

pretty fucking magnificent

no matter what

time of day

you visit,

but sunrise makes the

building look

almost purple

(so get up early and take in the sunrise).

maddy seemed in

awe of place,

just like her

mom.

maddy's first view.

we kept pushing,

making it to the front

so our guide

could take a

few proper photos

us.

DSC_0625

before turning the

camera over to me.

monument.

reflection.

after the photos

we moved on

to a less

busy part of

the place,

the guide picking up

where he left off

three years earlier.

the two of us outside the taj mahal.

here.

again, rachel listened

intently while

i wandered with madeline.

closer.

the other awesome

thing about our

guide is that

he has us stop

for photos in

the exact same places

each time.

with my best girl.

dancing.

the two of us outside the taj mahal.

he didn’t have the

same motivations that

i did,

instead he just

has a script in

his head that

includes taking the

same touristy shots

no matter who

he’s with.

awesome.

holding.

another shot suggested by the tour guide.

more walking,

more photographs.

reflection.

running.

hanging.

up.

then a seat

rachel.

us.

the two of us outside the taj mahal.

more photos

us.

us.

(my green shirt helps me blend in with the bushes).

then…

time for a

diaper change.

taj mahal diaper change.

success.

we stopped in

another spot,

the spot where

liz

heard the story,

and said the words

that have inspired

me to do what

i do everyday

(i’ll be discussing my visit here with liz in greater depth in my book).

rachel listened

to that same story

with our guide.

while i walked with

madeline.

i just couldn’t

listen to it.

not this time.

tired of walking,

she decided she

was ready

to go in the backpack,

but she drew

a crowd before i

could get her

on my back.

drawing a crowd.

we kept moving.

maddy tried to

do something about

the pain she

felt in her mouth

maddy.

while i remembered.

liz taking a photo of the taj mahal.

we got close

to the mausoleum

itself, and had

to put on

some shoe covers.

rachel has had

to do a lot

of things she

didn’t anticipate during

this trip,

but i may have

crossed a line with her

this time.

this is also part of her job description.

as always,

more photos

us.

liz and out guide outside the taj mahal.

archway.

light.

detail.

(comparing the old photos to the new ones makes me really happy i bought that wide-angle lens).

madeline loves a

lot of things in

this world.

one of her favorites

is screaming

(mostly with joy).

she especially loves

screaming in places

where she can

hear her screams echo.

as it turns out,

mausoleums are great

echo chambers,

but not the kind

of place where

children should be screaming.

so i rushed

us out of

the place

while rachel spent

some time with

our guide.

of course,

the screaming stopped

once we got outside,

and she wanted

out of the backpack.

hanging on.

throwing something.

with my daughter.

pointing.

we caught up with

rachel and our guide,

and let madeline

play for a while.

breaking my glasses.

running.

kisses.

playing.

happy.

running.

so small.

madeline.

upside down.

running.

then a short rest

for me.

tracing.

the taj mahal was her playground on this day.

(i’m getting old).

we kept walking,

rachel.

heading toward the mosque.

before we got

there, madeline stopped

to meet some friends.

with her new friends.

surrounded by her new friends.

we headed in

heading into the mosque.

liz outside the jawab on the east side of the taj mahal.

and did a

little exploring.

us.

ceiling.

me.

i went back outside

for a few more photos

rachel.

small us.

(you can barely see us in the photos, but we’re there).

then i ordered

rachel to remove

my shoe covers.

this is why she gets paid the big bucks.

somewhere along the

way, maddy passed

out in the backpack,

which made

for a great photo op.

awesome.

then we made our

way to the

exit and headed

to the next place,

a place i visited

with my mom,

but not with

liz.

we drove through

the streets

of agra,

arm.

bulls, polio vaccine posters.

clown.

man with rifle.

we arrived, but

before going inside

i had to snap

a few photos.

goat.

music machine.

just inside the

gates of the place,

maddy did what

she’s been

doing during much

of the trip…

she enjoyed

the cold ground.

loving the cold ground.

crawling.

i stayed outside

with madeline.

while rachel walked

through the tomb with

our guide.

rachel.

rachel.

while they were

inside, madeline

got a little

too close to a

monkey and screamed

when it hissed

at her.

it was one of the

first times in

her life that

i’ve seen a genuine

look of terror

on her face.

she jumped into

my arms,

then yelled,

“rayel.”

so yeah,

we went looking

for rachel.

maddy and rachel.posing.

we played for

a bit,

posing.

maddy.

(maddy successfully removed one of the hair ties)

then went inside

to check the

place out.

tomb.

tombs.

then for some

reason maddy pointed

toward the monkeys,

suggesting that we

go see them again.

not one to torture

my child,

i tried to

explain to her that

monkeys are mean,

but she didn’t

care, and insisted

we go see them.

this time

she stayed in

my arms,

and enjoyed watching

them swing from

tree-to-tree

swinging.

and run around.

thrilled about the monkeys.

the guide went out

of his way to

demonstrate his child

rearing skills

maddy and bobby.

and madeline demonstrated

that she likes

rachel more than me.

maddy and rachel.

rachel snapped this

gem of a

photo on the way

out of the place.

people and a chipmunk.

back in the car,

we drove past

a religious procession.

carrying water.

carrying water.

dude.

music machine.

after a little

shopping, we took

a short walk

around the town.

posters.

nothing like using a chicken to sell chicken.

circus.

street food.

garlands.

posters - one is never enough.

fuck your rules, dude.

then it was back

in the car,

and off to our

last site of

the day.

we were here.

outside the agra fort.

liz outside the agra fort.

avoiding the vendors.

it was the same

day that we

visited fatehpur sikri,

and it was

hot as hell.

today, it was

hot, but nothing

like that day.

(tip…visit north india in the winter).

we took a

couple of photos

before heading inside.

rachel.

us.

us.

liz standing inside the amar singh gate at the agra fort.

maddy was excited

to be running on

her own

madeline, rachel.

running.

but soon wanted

to be back

in my arms

found some shade.

inside the courtyard of the jehangiri mahal.

she met some friends

making friends.

then got shy.

shy.

we made our way

into the next room

and some time

playing while

rachel and the guide

continued talking.

madeline.

madeline.

madeline.

happy.

us.

women.

looking at the taj from a distance.

the exploring continued…

trying to climb.

making friends.

taking a rest.

in a corner.

rachel.

playing with a sign.

sitting.

victory.

we stopped in

a spot where

she

once was.

liz inside the khas mahal.

maddy.

this one was

tough for

me for some reason.

but soon

i was laughing

again as

i performed another

diaper change

in front of another

historical place.

diaper change.

we took a few

more photos

before leaving the place.

rachel.

us.

over my shoulder.

eating a banana.

rachel.

us.

liz outside the diwani-i-am (the hall of public audience).

us.

walking.

happiness.

relief.

nothing more to

see that day,

so we made our

way back to the hotel

for dinner.

maddy and rachel

went to bed

early, anticipating our

early morning car ride

the next day.

i stayed up

late again,

writing about

the memories that this

trip brought

back to life.

at 5:00

the next morning

we were back

in the car,

sleeping our

way toward delhi.

i woke in time

to take a

couple of photos.

riding.

riding.

clothes.

6 hours after

leaving agra

we were on

a plane, flying

toward another

country and more memories.

1.5 hours later,

we’d touch down

in kathmandu, nepal,

the place where

i asked

liz

to marry me.

139 Comments

  1. Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:11 pm | Permalink

    I love the picture of Liz and Maddie in the same spot up close. Beautiful. She looks just like her mother. I’m sure that comforts and pains you at times.

  2. Corinne Cooper
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:19 pm | Permalink

    Beautiful pictures….have a safe & hopefully quiet flight home.

  3. Bri
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:19 pm | Permalink

    Love and Safe Travels.

  4. Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:20 pm | Permalink

    Matt,
    Thank you so much for sharing this with all of us. I can’t even begin to tell you how amazing the pictures of Maddy where Liz has been will be for her. The buildings are so breathtaking and I can imagine just how inspiring they have been to you. You are so strong and you are raising one amazing little girl who will feel so much of Liz’s love through your love and stories. It is so great that you have been able to take this trip and give Maddy this life experience. Thank you again for sharing this. Give Maddy a big hug. P.s. My 3 year old who often cuddles on my lap as I read (to my self) and look at the pictures you posts, got a new little blond haired doll this week and has started calling it Maddy..

  5. glenda in san diego
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:23 pm | Permalink

    Beautiful love story and beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing. Maddy is definitely Liz’s clone or “mini me”. I love that you have pics of Maddy in the same spot as you do of Liz. So bittersweet!!

  6. Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:28 pm | Permalink

    I love your blog. I read every entry. By far my favorite. Thank you so much for sharing your journey. It’s very enlightening, entertaining and endearing.

  7. rebecca, Idaho
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:40 pm | Permalink

    Thank you for taking us along on your trip. I love seeing the comparison pictures or Maddie and Liz. I melts my heart to see you sharing all of these experiences with Maddie!

  8. Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:42 pm | Permalink

    As usual, the photos were awesome.

  9. Nicole
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:45 pm | Permalink

    Matt, I have been reading you blog for sometime and I just wanted to say that I think that it is so wonderful that you are doing this for Maddie, Liz and yourself. Good luck to you both and continued safe travels

  10. Peter
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:47 pm | Permalink

    Great post and wonderful photos. Your blog is an inspiration. I’m sure your book will be the Taj Mahal you build for Liz. Safe travels.

  11. Posted 11/21/2009 at 9:56 pm | Permalink

    The pictures you are taking on this trip are just fabulous, they tell such a story about what you guys are doing. It must be so hard and yet so wonderful to be reliving these experiences with Maddy that you once shared with Liz.

    I can’t to see where your trip takes you next.

  12. Marnie
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:03 pm | Permalink

    Memories, new & old, will live in you forever. Maddy will cherish those memories some day. It’s wonderful that you have so many pictures of all of your adventures. Thank you for sharing it all with us. Be safe.

  13. Jen
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:09 pm | Permalink

    you are so brave for confronting and sharing all of this, Matt. I’ve got so much admiration for you! Safe travels. :)

    also, I’m really ignorant when it comes to photography, but all of your photos are beautiful, and I’m especially loving the last one in this post. Something about the contrast of the poor and chaotic conditions and the cheerful bright colors…just wow, that one is amazing!

  14. Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:09 pm | Permalink

    Oh Matt…

    The photo of Maddy, (almost half way through), close up looking down the camera lens made me catch my breath. She is so much like her lovely Mama, so bittersweet.

    Your “journey” is amazing, you are so generous in sharing it with us. I look forward to every update.

    Safe travels dear Matt, Maddy & Rachel.

  15. Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:12 pm | Permalink

    Beautiful photos, beautiful girl, beautiful memories. This is going to be so important to Madeline when she’s older. Liz would be so proud of you, I’m sure of it.

  16. megan
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:13 pm | Permalink

    amazing pictures, amazing memories…

  17. Heidi S in Alberta
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:17 pm | Permalink

    Wonderful photos. Seriously, I cannot wait to read your book! Do you need a proofreader? :) Keep having fun and safe travels back home.

  18. victoria
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:18 pm | Permalink

    Loved these pictures just as much as the others, Another hard yet fun part of your trip to India!

    Enjoy your last few days!!

  19. Karo
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:21 pm | Permalink

    You are building such an incredible lifetime of memories for Maddy. Eagerly awaiting your book.

  20. Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:23 pm | Permalink

    I’m loving your experiences. Can’t wait to read the book!!!

  21. Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:24 pm | Permalink

    Wow. The photos are amazing. The memories are amazing. I’m bracing myself for the Nepal post, the memories of your engagement.

  22. Tracy in the HB
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:26 pm | Permalink

    Thanks for sharing Matt.

  23. Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:30 pm | Permalink

    Seriously, you function on less sleep than any other person on the planet!

    Thank you for taking us with you on this journey. You could have chose to keep this to yourself and just share with Maddy, but I truely feel grateful for your willingness to share. You readers are better people for the message you send. For me, it’s that life is fleeting; love and hang on with all you’ve got while you’re here. Again, my thanks.

  24. Chrissie
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:33 pm | Permalink

    Beautiful Pics. I’d like 17 copies of your book please. =)

  25. Jen
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:33 pm | Permalink

    just wow. i absolutely can not wait for you book. as always, your little girl is so lucky to have you. the memories you are making for her are priceless. I am amazed by you.

  26. Em
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:40 pm | Permalink

    sending you so much love. What you are doing for Maddy is amazing!

  27. Posted 11/21/2009 at 10:57 pm | Permalink

    Wow. Just amazing pictures. You totally need to get yourself a pair of purple shoes like Maddy has.

  28. Tabatha
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 11:23 pm | Permalink

    Loved the photos matt they are amazing.

    Tell Rachel her photo was amazing too. Bet noone else caught that photo….haha

    Maddy looks so much like her mother.

    Can’t wait for next post!!!!

  29. Lisa M. Davies
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 11:24 pm | Permalink

    Crying again…I keep looking at Liz and shaking my head, what a shame, what a terrible shame. So much love there, so much pain.
    Little Maddy walking in places halfway around the world where her mother walked not three years ago. Retracing a journey and a memory all in one. Crying again and again…hugs to you.

  30. Lori in the TX
    Posted 11/21/2009 at 11:46 pm | Permalink

    A true love story for the ages. The gift you are giving Madeline is priceless. Past midnight in Texas, but I never tire of your writing.

  31. Cinthia
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 12:08 am | Permalink

    Amazing! Now I REALLY want to go to the Taj Mahal… I’m glad you’ve got so many pictures, I bet Maddy will treasure them when she’s bigger…

  32. Posted 11/22/2009 at 1:05 am | Permalink

    You take the most amazing photos. I lost count of the number of pictures I would frame and display in my home if I were you…

  33. MelisaG
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 1:25 am | Permalink

    Truly breathtaking…I just love the pictures of Maddy in the same spots as her mom. I really think these are going to be one of her most prized possessions some day. What a neat connection this will be for her.

    Did you have any idea that having an adorable little blond girl with would create such a stir? They are so impressed with her….so cute!

  34. JackiinTasmania
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 4:04 am | Permalink

    My heart stops when I look at these pics of Maddie, I can only imagine how seeing her in these special places affects you. You are an inspiration, I love seeing India through your eyes.

    Keep on keeping on…

  35. Posted 11/22/2009 at 4:19 am | Permalink

    My words can’t express my thoughts right now but I will try: there is something so heartbreaking and yet heartwarming about seeing these particular pictures of your trip. I think it has to do with seeing y’all in front of a place built from the love one man had for a woman. And while it is hauntingly beautiful – I think your trip, your book will eclipse the Taj. You honor Liz and the love you shared and we all should strive for that in our lives and be damned lucky when and if we find it.

  36. Posted 11/22/2009 at 4:36 am | Permalink

    Once again, another beautiful post that has me teary eyed. One day your little girl will thank you for all of these memories…

  37. Sue
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 5:01 am | Permalink

    Beautiful, beautiful, words and pics,Matt! Maddy looks more & more like her stunningly beautiful Mom each and every day,,,,,,,,,
    To see you & Maddy in the same pics, of places, that were taken of you & Liz, just takes one’s breath away,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    These will truly be a priceless possession of Maddy’s as she gets older,,,,,,,,,She has the best dad ever!

  38. Jen on LI
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 5:57 am | Permalink

    Thanks for sharing with all of us, Matt. I check your blog every day eagerly waiting for another post to find out where in the world is Matt and Maddy. Even my 18 month old daughter likes to look at all of the pictures of Maddy!

    I can. not. wait! for your book. Good luck with the writing and all your travels.

  39. Denise
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 6:04 am | Permalink

    I always have a lump in my throat when I read your blog, but even more with these pix from India. I wish life were as easy as Photoshop…I want to just cut Liz out of all of those pictures from the past and put her in the ones with you and Maddie there now.
    You have amazing strength.

  40. leslie
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 7:10 am | Permalink

    great pictures. really! i love the one of you&maddie at the taj mahal (you sitting on the floor)-it looks so peaceful! it must be so hard going through all this! cudos!

    and you make me wanna see india even more!

  41. melissa c
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 7:28 am | Permalink

    hi matt,

    greetings from singapore!
    i’ve only been introduced to ur site recently :)
    i really do admire ur strength and all the effort u took to continue with this blog
    baby maddy looks so much like liz
    i’m sure liz is watching over u and maddy
    have a safe trip and take care!

  42. Christie
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 7:28 am | Permalink

    Your book is going to be so awesome. You are a great writer. Maddy will be so darn proud of you when she is old enough to read this book. She will know her mother through you. You should be so proud of what you have accomplished. Cant wait for more.

  43. Rachel
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:13 am | Permalink

    Is it strange that reading a blog about people I’ve never met can make my heart ache every time? If reading and seeing these pictures affects me like this, I cannot begin to imagine the strength it takes to purposely stand in the same places you went to with Liz. This trip and these pictures are such a gift to Maddy. And I agree with the comment above that the book will be your own Taj Mahal. Thank you for another post with such beautiful pictures.

  44. Jessica in PA
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:16 am | Permalink

    Amazing

  45. Pam Briar59 The Mn
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:26 am | Permalink

    Stunning photos as usual. Looks like a wonderful time full of all good memories. You are creating such a beautiful set of new memories for Maddy. I can’t wait for more.

  46. Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:40 am | Permalink

    Amazing photos. I can not wait to read your book.

  47. Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:52 am | Permalink

    Beautiful photos, all of them.
    Madeline looks so much like Liz, are you sure you had any part in her making. =)

    My 3 year old says that Madeline is beautiful!

  48. Debbie
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:59 am | Permalink

    Thank you so much Matt for sharing such intimate details of your trip. I feel as though I have been there with you every step of the way through your amazing photos and words. For Maddy to have pictures of her in the same place as her Mom is just priceless and she will treasure them when she gets older. Much love and safe travels to you, Maddy, and Rachel as you make your way back to L.A.

  49. Meg
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:59 am | Permalink

    I don’t know why but it makes me cry to see that pic of Madeline in the same spot as her mom. I don’t even know her! Gorgeous shots – you are an awesome photog.

  50. Christine
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 9:10 am | Permalink

    Matt,
    I loved the pictures. What an amazing gift you are giving yourself and Maddie. While I was looking at the pictures, I could picture Maddie, many years from now, looking just like her Mom, on her own little journey taking those same footsteps and really feeling her mom’s presence. Will make for another great book.
    Take care

  51. Posted 11/22/2009 at 9:12 am | Permalink

    How wonderful to be able to do this! Your photos are amazing, as I was reading I had to keep reminding myself that Liz wasn’t there with you this time, at least not physically. It is so seamless. I think it is an amazing thing you are doing with your little maddie.

  52. Granny Rose
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 9:49 am | Permalink

    Thank you Matt!

    I have enjoyed the trip through your pictures of places I’ll never be able to go. The three of you seen to be having so much fun. Little Maddy is growing too fast.

    Thank you for your pictures and I’m waiting for your book.

  53. pokeitlikejello
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 10:07 am | Permalink

    I don’t usually comment, but I felt compelled to with this entry. Thank you for writing, Matt. This entry was particularly touching.

    I can’t wait to read your book. I have a feeling I’m going to need a box a tissues to accompany it.

    Madeline is lucky to have you. You’re a great father.

  54. Posted 11/22/2009 at 10:40 am | Permalink

    Matt your pictures are amazing! Showing the pictures of Liz in the exact same places was very touching. What a gift for Maddy when she gets old enough to understand. I do have one question though…how much sleep are you surviving on? Take care and I can’t wait to hear more about your journey

  55. Posted 11/22/2009 at 11:00 am | Permalink

    I have always thought of the Taj Mahal as a beautiful tribute to a great love, but now I’m starting to think your tribute to Liz is even more breathtaking.

    More often than not, I’m moved to tears when I read your words. Maddy is lucky her Daddy is keeping her Mommy’s memory alive (vividly so).

  56. Amy In Woodbury
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 11:26 am | Permalink

    WOW….through tears….what an amazing experience!! I love the pics of Liz in the same places as you and Maddy…..so f**king hard yet awesome!!

  57. Posted 11/22/2009 at 11:40 am | Permalink

    the lighting is lovely in these places. Isn’t there a law about diaper changing in historical places? No? Or maybe she’s so cute, you can get away with it.

  58. Belinda
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 12:16 pm | Permalink

    Thank you for sharing your current travels and your memories of Liz! I love the flashes back and forth between then and now…I knew from all of your previous posts that Maddy was a little clone of her Mom but this certainly brings it front and center! Safe journey, my friend, in all that it encompasses!

  59. Posted 11/22/2009 at 12:48 pm | Permalink

    Matt ~ I just wanted to say that I really enjoy reading your posts of your travels with your daughter. She is so adorable; she is the spitting image of Liz.

    I can’t wait for your book to come out, and to read more stories on your adventures and travels!

  60. Laurie Sue
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 1:34 pm | Permalink

    Wonderful post. Amazing photos!
    When the people in India flock around Maddie, what do they say about her? Are they amazed by her beautiful fair skin, clear blue eyes, or blond hair?

  61. Lori
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 1:39 pm | Permalink

    Thank you for sharing your trip and beautiful photographs. Wishing you all pleasant and safe travels home. I can hardly wait to read your book.

    I’m really looking forward to hearing an update from the lovely Rachel about her experience in India :-)

    All my best to you,Miss Maddy, and of course Miss Rachel!

  62. Posted 11/22/2009 at 1:43 pm | Permalink

    Looks like an amazing journey for so many reasons. I love seeing the photos of Liz & the ones of little Maddie. There are so many similarities. You are so strong. Thanks for sharing with us

  63. Posted 11/22/2009 at 3:00 pm | Permalink

    Beautiful writing, beautiful journey.

  64. Lisa
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 3:16 pm | Permalink

    Whenever I look at the photos and read the blog and see what you’re doing, it really touches me. Madeline is so, so, so lucky to have a father like you and she will love you that much more when she is old enough to realize what you’ve done for her. Much love to you both!

  65. Posted 11/22/2009 at 4:16 pm | Permalink

    Maddy is soooo beautiful! I CAN’T wait to read your book. If your blog is this good, I can only imagine how good your book will be! Thank you so much for sharing you journey.

  66. Alexandra ;)
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 4:47 pm | Permalink

    Liz and Maddy are both absolutely beautiful in these photos, Matt!!!

  67. Annie from Oregon
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 4:47 pm | Permalink

    Matt, I am so glad you instinctively knew what you needed to do and where you needed to be to face all this – and that you had the courage to do so. Going back both to finish and to rebuild memories for yourself, Maddy, your families – you are a man among men. I thank you for being willing to share your personal and intimate feelings: to share the joy and the gasps, and the tears. I have been ‘with you’ from the beginning and am humbled to be part of your life journey. I am so proud of you Matt. Thank you for the beauty of India shown in your awesome photographs – it is a wonderful and spectacular trip.

    On a more serious note (!) I remember Pampers’ gift of diapers for Maddy. I am thinking you might consider a partnership with Kleenex – a box of which could accompany each of your books. Just saying….

  68. Jennifer J
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 4:58 pm | Permalink

    Love the pics!! So much to see and so colorful. I love it have a safe trip home.

  69. Elisabeth
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 5:31 pm | Permalink

    The last line took my breath away! Thank you for sharing your life and journey with us! I can not wait to read the book! Have you ever said what all of your tattoos say? Just wondering!?!

  70. Posted 11/22/2009 at 5:44 pm | Permalink

    The Taj Mahal is breathtaking.
    But what actually made it hard for me to breath reading this is the juxtaposition of the new pictures with the old.
    Liz was there before… but I can’t help believing she’s there with you now too.

  71. Krista
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 6:00 pm | Permalink

    Again, amazing. The last line? tears.

  72. Rita from the Chicago
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 6:05 pm | Permalink

    I absolutely love the pictures of Liz interspersed throughout these posts. They are beautiful. Thank you for sharing.

  73. Posted 11/22/2009 at 6:51 pm | Permalink

    another amazing update…as always!! love the pictures!

  74. Sarah Dull
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 6:52 pm | Permalink

    Beautiful, as always. I will have to get a box of tissues before I read your next post. I can already predict that my husband will sit next to me and ask why I read things that make me cry. I can’t imagine him doing what you are doing – you truly are amazing.

  75. Page
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 7:11 pm | Permalink

    I don’t know how you are doing this, but Madeline will love you for it. You are a special dad.

  76. Jackie
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 7:22 pm | Permalink

    Wow…..every time I read your posts, I am brought to tears. You are an amazing, strong person. Maddy is so lucky to have such a great dad. Both Liz and Maddy are absolutely beautiful. I have a 6 month old daughter and it pains me that Liz was not able to know Maddy. I couldn’t imagine…at least Maddy will know her mom through your wonderful stories and pictures.

  77. KellyMN
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 7:31 pm | Permalink

    I just get so sad when I look at the pictures of Liz. I think because they are juxtaposed with the current pictures, I feel like she’s alive and physically part of all you are doing and then I remember no, she’s not, but I so wish she was. I’m sorry to be a bummer, but your writing and pictures evoke strong feelings in me. Enjoy your last few weeks abroad.

  78. Beth H
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 7:40 pm | Permalink

    Gorgeous pics of Maddie and you in the same spots that you were with Liz!!!

  79. Liz
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:05 pm | Permalink

    Matt,

    Once again I sit here with tears in my eyes. Your words and photographs are beautiful. Liz is just stunning! I can only begin to imagine how difficult it must be to face these places and these feelings. Maddie is so incredibly lucky that your strength and your love have brought you both to this place! Enjoy the remainder of your trip. I can’t wait for the book!

    All my best,
    Liz

  80. Chandra
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:12 pm | Permalink

    Beautiful. Everything is so beautiful. Thank you for sharing this with all of us.

  81. Ashley in the NYC
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 8:23 pm | Permalink

    long-time reader, rare commenter.

    i am especially moved by this post for some reason. your photography just gets better and better and that daughter of yours melts my heart.

    isn’t parenthood amazing?

    safe travels to you all.

  82. Julie
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 9:11 pm | Permalink

    You’ve officially made me cry for the one billionth time. I can’t wait to buy your book.

  83. Jenny
    Posted 11/22/2009 at 9:23 pm | Permalink

    per usual. a few tears, oohing and awing and laughing my ass off at the picture Rachel took. thank you again – from the bottom of my heart.

  84. Posted 11/22/2009 at 9:25 pm | Permalink

    I am loving how she’s warmed up to Rachel.

  85. Posted 11/22/2009 at 10:06 pm | Permalink

    Wow, this most is filled with so much mixing of the past and present (in a good way), that it is sometimes hard to tell.

  86. Posted 11/22/2009 at 10:35 pm | Permalink

    What a treasure these pictures and your blog will be for Maddie! Thanks for sharing your journeys with us.

  87. Posted 11/22/2009 at 10:59 pm | Permalink

    Matt..anyway ‘Rayul’ could be maddy’s daycare provider when you hit home? They clearly have a bond. It seems like Rachel could provide a beautiful alternative to Maddy’s day care center.Having had kids of my own in daycare over the years, and having been a daycare provider in the past…I think Rachel would be the altimate person in Maddy’s life to give her the richness she diserves.

  88. Posted 11/23/2009 at 7:28 am | Permalink

    Continued strength to you.

  89. Posted 11/23/2009 at 8:06 am | Permalink

    WOW Matt! This is stunning. The post, the pictures, the juxtaposition of mother and daughter. I think you’re amazingly brave for taking this trip now while the memories are still so fresh for you. But I can’t imagine Liz wanting you to do anything else – but introduce you beautiful daughter to one of your favourite places and a big piece of the history of her parents. The photos are stunning. I have never been, but my parents visited India and I remember being awestruck at the beauty of the buildings and landmarks.

    This has got to be incredibly healing and yet so, so painful at the same time. Especially with a mini Liz at your feet, reminding you of her again and again. I wish you nothing but healing and peace on the rest of your journey. Thank you for sharing some of your soul with us. All I know is that Liz is incredibly proud of you and Madeline and is guiding you on your journey.

    Blessings to you,
    Tricia : )

  90. Posted 11/23/2009 at 8:07 am | Permalink

    Oh, these pictures of Maddie and you in the same places you were with Liz just leave a big lump in my throat. I can’t even imagine what it’s like for you….

  91. Posted 11/23/2009 at 8:24 am | Permalink

    Oh Matt! this was such a beautiful post. I absolutely loved the photos especially Miss Maddy’s pigtails shot at the very beginning, the series of before and after photos of all you (you, Miss M and Liz) sitting on the same wooden bench in front of the Taj Majal and the before and after shot of Liz (looking away) and Maddy (looking up) towards the end… I lost it with this last one for it seemed as though Liz was there, looking down at her baby and Maddy was looking up at mommy. Thank you so much for sharing this experience with us… much love from Cabo!

  92. Shannon in Chicago
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 9:08 am | Permalink

    That post more than any other shows the veil between the past and present that you are moving through. I’m glad you are taking us with you. It’s a beautiful journey.

  93. Liz B.
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 9:22 am | Permalink

    Man, oh man, oh man, you’re making me want to go to India. You know, when I’m not on a grad student budget anymore.

    What a wonderful trip, and a beautiful gift to your daughter AND to her mom, who I’m certain must be so very proud of you.

  94. Posted 11/23/2009 at 9:24 am | Permalink

    Oh my gosh! I can’t believe you’re already coming home! For some reason I thought you were going to be there until early December. That went by fast!

  95. Posted 11/23/2009 at 9:53 am | Permalink

    Amazing. So beautiful. I can’t wait for the book.

  96. Jennie
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 10:40 am | Permalink

    Thanks so much for sharing your journey. So looking forward to your book!

  97. Shell Sanchez
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 10:55 am | Permalink

    way to make me tear up with that last

    “the place where

    i asked

    liz

    to marry me.”

    LOVE the pictures. Liz was such a
    beautiful person. maddy is just a beautiful.

  98. Chelsey
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 11:23 am | Permalink

    I know that everyone else said this, but I just love how you are taking these pictures of Madeline where Liz was. It is just so beautiful but yet so sad. Liz was so gorgeous and Madeline possibly may be more beautiful as she gets older. Matt, you are such an inspiration and I hope your life continues to get better with everyday and your pain a little more tolerable. Madeline is going to be so proud to have you as a father as she grows up. Best wishes to a wonderful holiday and new year.

  99. KN in TX
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 11:42 am | Permalink

    I’ve been showing your twitpics to my 5y old daughter before bed at night. I say “there’s Maddy in India” and “that’s Maddy’s daddy.” She’s enjoying your adventures.

    Thank you for sharing so much.

  100. Posted 11/23/2009 at 11:58 am | Permalink

    I will echo everyone who says the pics of Liz juxtaposed with the ones of Maddy are amazing. What an amazing, adventurous, marvelous life is in store for your daughter. Thank you for sharing.

  101. Laura D in the Texas
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 12:11 pm | Permalink

    I love the words and the pictures. It’s hard to believe that you will be home soon! I hope your trip has been all that you wanted it to be and more. I can’t wait to hear more and read your book!!

  102. Aza
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 12:13 pm | Permalink

    I have a girl, just one month younger than Maddie so seeing your pictures and knowing your story really touches my heart and causes a lot mixed feelings. Anyway I just want to say thank you for sharing this with us and opening our eyes to appreciate our families even more.

    I can’t wait for your book, when is it going to be available?
    I also wanted to send Maddie a Xmas present but I guess she would appreciate it more if I make a donation to the fundation, so count with it :)

  103. Kelly
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 12:50 pm | Permalink

    I love the way you keep Liz alive for the benefit of your daughter…even if it is painful for you. This book is the best gift I have ever seen a father give to a daughter. It’s awesome Matt. When Madeline gets back to daycare and sees a picture of an elephant or a monkey it will have more meaning to her than any of her friends will ever know. She actually rode an elephant and that is SO priceless!!

  104. Asbhy07
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 1:09 pm | Permalink

    Simply gorgeous!! Hope you three have a wonderful journey back home!! HAPPY THANKSGIVING IN ADANCE!!

  105. Crystal
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 2:01 pm | Permalink

    so amazingly beautiful…i hope that this journey helps you heal. maddy is so blessed to have you!

  106. Heather
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 2:40 pm | Permalink

    Some really amazing photos Matt. Have a safe trip home (hope Maddy sleeps for you on the flights).

  107. Becky in the tx
    Posted 11/23/2009 at 5:33 pm | Permalink

    I’ve said it before, but you are giving that beautiful daughter of yours the best gift in the world. She will have more life experiences in her life than the majority of people in the world.

    It is so neat to see the then/now pictures Matt. What a perfect memory your daughter will have. What good memories for you to have.

    Keep on posting…

  108. Posted 11/23/2009 at 5:47 pm | Permalink

    Your pictures are amazing. This trip must be so bittersweet for you. Thanks for sharing your memories and experiences with the world.

  109. Posted 11/23/2009 at 8:49 pm | Permalink

    These are fantastic photos. When Maddy grows up she is going to treasure them so much and this whole blog and how it documents not only her life, but the life before her.

  110. Posted 11/23/2009 at 9:39 pm | Permalink

    I love all the beautiful photos! What an amazing place with beautiful memories!
    Liz was so beautiful!! It breaks my heart to think that she should be there with you two. I know you are getting wonderful memories to fill that very anticipated book of yours! I am glad that you are enjoying yourself for the most part…It’s nice to see a good feeling smile on your face!

  111. Posted 11/23/2009 at 10:11 pm | Permalink

    You are brilliant. I love your blog.

  112. Marie May
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 12:20 am | Permalink

    The photos are amazing. Your words take me away to where you are.

  113. Toni :O)
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 6:58 am | Permalink

    Wow…such amazing photos and it’s just so striking how Maddy truly is a “Mini Me” of Liz…so beautiful. I love the before and now photos…what an awesome documentary for your sweet girl. Thanks for sharing this wonderful adventure with us. I can only imagine how painful and joyous it must be all at the same time. I’m so looking foward to your book.

  114. AT
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 10:31 am | Permalink

    Unrelated to the post, but in case you hadn’t seen this, I thought I should share: http://survivingtheworld.net/Lesson28.html

  115. Dawn
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 10:39 am | Permalink

    Wow. Moved to tears…. again.
    Liz’s beauty radiates from Madeline. You are blessed to have two such beautiful women in your life.
    Thank you for sharing your journey.

  116. Sheena
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 11:37 am | Permalink

    What you are doing to express your love for your wife and daughter is nothing short of perfection. Thank you for letting us tag along your journey.

  117. Posted 11/24/2009 at 12:25 pm | Permalink

    What an amazing journey. Heart breaking and Heart warming at the same time. What a beautiful thing to have pictures of Liz and Madeline in the same place, if not together. Wow.

  118. aawater
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 1:45 pm | Permalink

    That Palace is beautiful! Love the pictures as always. Keep your head up with your visit to kathmandu, nepal. It is a great memory :) Be blessed!

  119. jillian
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 3:04 pm | Permalink

    you truly are a hero. my heart aches for you – but i hope you get joy out of looking at your daughter’s beautiful face. i so wish that liz could be in those pictures with you and maddy. thank you for sharing your life with us; i’m sure it can not be easy, but i’m also sure that you have helped so many people. your photos are beautiful; keep it up, and remember how loved you are.

  120. jillian
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 3:07 pm | Permalink

    matt and maddy. keep on keeping on.

  121. Molly
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 4:59 pm | Permalink

    After the pics of Maddie playing, there is a pic of Liz and then right below it a picture of you holding Maddie and her reaching up…Just as I scrolled through, it looked like she was reaching for Liz and Liz was smiling back down on her. It just really hit me. Wondered if you noticed…

  122. Chelsea
    Posted 11/24/2009 at 5:26 pm | Permalink

    Matt, I’ve read your blog pretty often for a while now. This is the first time that I have cried. The pictures of Madeline in the same spots as Liz and knowing that the next installment is going to be where you asked Liz to marry you. You most definitely have brought tears to my eyes. I can’t wait for your book to come out.

  123. Posted 11/24/2009 at 8:55 pm | Permalink

    How do you do it?

  124. Posted 11/24/2009 at 9:46 pm | Permalink

    absolutely stunning pictures. Madeline is a little rockstar with her purple shoes.

  125. Posted 11/24/2009 at 10:06 pm | Permalink

    WOW!! I love all your Pictures. I look at them in eyes that i know i will never get to go there so i am seeing it through your Photos. It has to be so painfull and exciting to show your daughter. Be safe and keep up the shareing. Thanks so much.

  126. Nicole
    Posted 11/25/2009 at 9:45 am | Permalink

    Wow. The way you intertwined the pictures of Liz throughout this post was absolutely beautiful. Absolutely, gut wrenchingly beautiful.

  127. Posted 11/25/2009 at 11:31 am | Permalink

    Holy crap. Another great post and fabulous pictures.

  128. Posted 11/25/2009 at 2:53 pm | Permalink

    Hello from Portugal!
    I’m watching you on Ophra right now. It may be an old programme, but through it I googled your and Madelaine’s name and I found your blog.
    Congratulations! And all the best for your future with your beautiful little girl :-)

  129. Michelle W
    Posted 11/26/2009 at 2:36 am | Permalink

    I think I have said this before….but Maddy is going to have one hell of a time meeting a man who will ever measure up to her Daddy. You are such an amazing father, and the gift you are giving to both Maddy and yourself takes incredible strength. As painful as some of the moments have been I can also imagine how healing. Liz would be beyond proud and she obviously knew what she was doing when she chose you as her partner in life and father of her most precious gift. I am so captivated by your journey, particularly since you started this chapter. I can hardly wait for the book!

  130. meg...ct
    Posted 11/26/2009 at 12:19 pm | Permalink

    Another great picture journey through India. It has been such a pleasure. I will miss them! But, I am so happy you are all home safely. Welcome Home. And Happy Thanksgiving!
    Peace.

  131. JK in the WI
    Posted 11/26/2009 at 1:06 pm | Permalink

    Happy Thanksgiving to you and Maddy! Safe travels, and enjoy the time with friends and family. You are amazing, and I’m thankful for the gift of your blog!

  132. Posted 11/26/2009 at 3:25 pm | Permalink

    It’s a strange pain… the pictures are pointing to what is gone but also acknowledging the timeless importance of what was. That land is magic. What you need.

  133. vickie
    Posted 11/27/2009 at 9:59 am | Permalink

    beautiful & touching as always..
    have you considered doing a photography-related book? you have a way of eyeing interesting things.

  134. Hilary
    Posted 11/27/2009 at 12:29 pm | Permalink

    I have been reading your blog for a long time and never posted, I am shy like that. But my sister lost her husband on Nov. 10th and I just realized maybe I should send her the link to it, to give her some inspiration that things will be ok.

  135. Tracy
    Posted 11/28/2009 at 10:22 pm | Permalink

    Very cool, Matt. (We exchanged e-mails about a year ago after the People article. My mother died during childbirth as well.) LOVE the pics of your wife and daughter standing in the same places – she will love knowing that she did that as soon as she’s old enough to understand. There aren’t many places where I can do that anymore (after 32 years, most family members have moved from houses and such where she would have been), but I do teach in the same school building where she was working as a secretary when she died, so I can feel her presence everyday that way. Very cool. I continue to check in with you every few months or so…it does something for me to see that sweet little girl and connect to her and know that she will be okay…because of you. Good luck to you, Matt.

  136. Heather
    Posted 12/1/2009 at 8:56 am | Permalink

    You have courage to inspire us all. Good luck to you and Maddy on your journey through this beautiful life.

  137. Jess
    Posted 12/2/2009 at 3:10 am | Permalink

    The closing lines made me cry.

    These photos are beautiful. Maddy will love them when she is old enough to enjoy them. You’ve heard it before, but you seem like an amazing father.

  138. Barb from Minnesota
    Posted 12/2/2009 at 4:46 pm | Permalink

    Wow. What a tribute and an honor. One of your best posts yet. You are a gifted photographer.

  139. Posted 12/3/2009 at 7:33 am | Permalink

    Thank you for sharing your beautiful pictures. I loved the photos of Liz interspersed throughout this post. You are an absolutely amazing father, Matt!

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